After time on the Amalfi Coast and in Tuscany, we turned north to Emilia Romagna, a region we had always heard was the culinary heart of Italy. This was our first trip to Emilia Romagna, and basing ourselves in Bologna gave us the perfect mix of history, art, and access to some of the most iconic food towns in Italy.
We spent five days here, mixing day trips with local siteseeing, always ending with long meals, and good wine.
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Emilia Romagna: Italy’s Hidden Foodie Region
Discover Emilia Romagna with our 5-day itinerary. Based in Bologna, we visited Parma, Modena, Lamborghini Museum in Sant’Agata Bolognese and San Marino. We enjoyed a copious amount of pasta: tagliatelle al ragù, a hearty meat sauce served with tagliatelle pasta.
Tortellini is one of Bologna’s signature pastas, and balanzoni are large green tortelloni filled with a ricotta-based mixture. They’re most commonly served with a butter and sage sauce. A must try food/pasta in Bologna.
Aceto Balsamico di Modena is another thing you can’t miss: thick, syrupy vinegar made from Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes, aged in wooden barrels for up to 25 years. Its rich, sweet flavor and low acidity make it perfect for drizzling over fruit, roasted veggies, grilled meats and cheese, especially parmachan cheese.
We can’t talk about Bologna food without mentioning mortadella. Mortadella is the meat of Bologna. You’ll find it on top of pizzas, in delis, at the market, and on any charcuterie board. There are even special local sandwich shops that only serve mortadella sandwiches.
So what exactly is mortadella? Mortadella is an emulsified pork sausage made from high-quality finely ground pork from the neck and shoulder, cubes of lard, black peppercorns, and sometimes pistachio.
A must-try Bologna dessert is Zuppa Inglese with its characteristic red color.
Torta di riso is another classic Bolognese dessert made with arborio rice, eggs, sugar, lemon peel, almonds, and milk. It is creamy, chewy cake and somewhere between rice pudding and crème brûlée, absolulety delicous!
Day 1–2: Bologna, Porticoes, Pasta & Piazza Maggiore
When we arrived in Bologna, we were instantly captivated by its porticoes (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and lively piazzas. Piazza Maggiore, framed by medieval buildings, felt like the beating heart of the city.
Things to do in Bologna, Emilia Romagna:
- See the Towers of Bologna. The taller one is the Asinelli. The smaller, with a greater lean, is the Garisenda. They are named for the families that constructed them between 1109 and 1119.
- The Fountain of Neptune is Bologna’s most famous landmark along with the Two Towers.
- Wander under miles of porticoes.
- Visit the Archiginnasio Library. It is one of the most important buildings in Bologna. It was once the main building of the University of Bologna; it currently houses the Archiginnasio Municipal Library and the Anatomical Theatre.
- See the unfinished yet grand San Petronio Basilica. It has been the seat of the relics of the city’s patron saint, Saint Petronius, since 2000. Construction began in 1390, and its main façade has remained unfinished since. The building was transferred from the city to the diocese in 1929; the basilica was finally consecrated in 1954.
But of course, Bologna is about food. On our second night, we joined a pasta-making cooking class in Bologna, where we learned to make tagliatelle al ragù (Bolognese sauce the authentic way) and tortellini in brodo. Rolling pasta by hand with a sfoglina (pasta master) was as much art as it was tradition.
Where to Eat in Bologna:
- Trattoria da Gianni – Authentic ragù and handmade pasta.
- Vicolo Colombina – This Michelin-star restaurant our Favorite
- Osteria dell’Orsa – Lively, casual, and perfect for tagliatelle al ragù.
- Mercato di Mezzo – Great for grazing and sampling local specialties.
Day 3: Parma – Prosciutto & Parmigiano Reggiano
From Bologna, it was just over an hour by train to Parma, the birthplace of Parmesan cheese and Parma ham. We had a rental so we made the trip by car.
We visited a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy farm in the morning, watching wheels of cheese being made and aged. Later, a tour of a prosciutto di Parma producer had us tasting silky, salty slices paired with Lambrusco wine.
Book the tours here: Parmesan Cheese Factory or Parma Ham Tour
Things to do in Parma:
- Visit the Duomo di Parma and Baptistery, both incredible examples of Romanesque architecture.
- Stroll through Teatro Regio di Parma, one of Italy’s great opera houses.
Where to Eat in Parma:
- Trattoria Corrieri – Traditional Emilia Romagna dishes.
- Parizzi Ristorante – Michelin-starred, creative takes on Parma classics.
Day 4: Modena – Balsamic Vinegar & Fast Cars
The next day took us to Modena, famous for traditional balsamic vinegar and home to Ferrari, close to Lamborghini, and famous for its Michelin-starred cuisine. Modena offers a unique glimpse into a side of Italy that is both elegant and exhilarating.
We loved our visit to the Ferrari Museum in Maranello, Enzo Ferrari Museum, and Lamborghini museum and factory tour, a must for car lovers like Mr. Suburbia.
Optionally visit at a family-run acetaia, to sample thick, syrupy Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, aged for decades in wooden barrels. Enjoy a lunch of t tigelle bread and crescentine fritters, and local meats and cheeses.
Where to Eat in Modena:
- Osteria Francescana – Massimo Bottura’s 3-Michelin-starred masterpiece (book well in advance).
- Ristorante Cavallino – Gourmet fare in a stylish, memorabilia-filled restaurant opened by automaker Enzo Ferrari in 1950.
- Hosteria Giusti – Cozy, hidden, and beloved for traditional Modenese cuisine.
Day 5: San Marino – A Tiny Country on a Hill
One of the best day trips from Bologna is San Marino, one of the world’s oldest republics and a country all its own. The drive took about two hours, but arriving in this hilltop fortress nation felt surreal.
We walked along the Three Towers of San Marino, browsed little shops, and enjoyed lunch with panoramic views stretching all the way to the Adriatic. It felt like stepping into another world while still being so close to Emilia Romagna.
Where to Eat in San Marino:
- La Terrazza Ristorante – Stunning views and regional dishes.
- Righi – Traditional San Marino cuisine with a fine dining edge.
See if San Marino is worth visiting!
Special Experience: Truffle Hunting in Emilia Romagna
If you have time, plan for a truffle hunting tour near Bologna. It is a special experience walking through the forests with trained dogs. Watching them sniff out precious truffles is magical, and the reward is even more amazing. Freshly shaved truffles over pasta! See some of the Truffle cities here.
Climbing the Towers of Bologna
Not many know that one of Bologna’s nicknames is “la turrita“, meaning ‘the city with many towers’. It’s estimated that, between the 12th and 13th centuries, Bologna had as many as 180 towers.
Climbing Bologna’s Asinelli Tower, the taller of the famous Two Towers (Le Due Torri) is a usually a top Bologna experience. You must climb 498 narrow and creaky wooden steps to get to the top though. Unless you plan ahead tickets are usually sold out
But don’t worry, there are a couple of alternative Bologna Tower Climbs. If you want to enjoy a skyline view but the Asinelli Tower is booked or the climb sounds too daunting, two excellent alternatives are regularly open:
San Pietro Bell Tower: The 70-meter bell tower of the Cathedral of San Pietro, which is the second-highest in the city also provides a panoramic view. It is actually composed by two towers built at different times (10th and 13th century), one inside the other.
Clock Tower (Torre dell’Orologio): Located in the Palazzo d’Accursio on Piazza Maggiore. It offers a spectacular view of the main square and the surrounding hills. This tower that has marked the time in the city for centuries,
This is the one we ended up doing. Once you climb up the wooden ladder, you get to see the mechanism that makes the clock work. Plus, we got to enjoy the beautiful views of the towers of Bologna and the terracotta rooftops, from the top. The tower ticket also includes the access to the City Art Collections, housed in the rooms that were once used as the residence of the Cardinal Legates.
Where to Stay in Bologna (Our Base)
- Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni – Luxury in the city center.
- Hotel Touring Bologna – Boutique charm with a rooftop terrace.
- You can find many Airbnb right at the Maggiore Square.
- Stay at Agriturismo Pradazzo (near Bologna) – For a countryside stay with farm-to-table meals.
- Roncolo 1888 is another great choice, if you like a stay among the vines and olive trees. It is a 30-minute drive from Reggio-Emilia and an hour from Modena.
Final Thoughts
Our first trip to Emilia Romagna gave us everything we hoped for and more: amazing views in Bologna, tasting Parmesan in Parma, balsamic vinegar in Modena, and even a day in San Marino. The region truly is Italy’s food capital, but also offers history, art, and unique cultural experiences.
As part of our month in Italy, Emilia Romagna felt like the region we didn’t know we were missing, and now we can’t wait to return.
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